12 August 2017
The 12th was mostly spent driving and ferrying. We made our way to Split after many traffic jams and ate lunch in the car. The ferry was super full and we sat out on the deck where we were surrounded by chain smokers. Eventually we arrived in Supetar, which is the main town on the island of Brač and from there drove to Pučišća, where we were met in the centre of town by the apartment owner’s dad and younger brother. The brother was our translator, and brought us up to the apartment while their dad drove with Christophe to park our car and bring the luggage. They were both very nice, and the apartment was delightful with an awesome view of the town.
A little stroll in the golden evening light led to us finding a mini mart. We sipped at cold soda water and ate melon on the balcony.
Pučišća
13 August
Knowing we would be on Brač for several days, we took the opportunity to sleep in and then take a leisurely walk to the waterfront. The town had beautiful stone buildings with terracotta roof tiles, which was unlike the towns on Cres, Lošinj and the mainland. Stone mined from Brač has been coveted since Ancient Greek and Roman times and shipped out for a number of important constructions, such as Diocletian’s Palace in Split.
We followed the narrow road along to an inlet with insanely bright blue water and moored boats. The colour was ridiculous, and reminded me of photos you see of the Caribbean.
Once we returned we had lunch on the balcony and then popped out later to visit the small strip of beach.
Zlatni Rat
14 August
The next morning we sunbathed and swam, then made Caesar salad for lunch. It was paradise. In the afternoon we drove to the town of Bol, parked and made our way through the pine trees to the beach known as Zlatni Rat (aka the Golden Cape).
The wind was strong, so there were heaps of windsurfers and the other ones with the big kites. We walked out to the end of the spit to watch them perform big jumps.
The Rat itself was jam packed with beachgoers and there were annoying shacks dotted around pumping out klub music with people dancing and drinking beside them. It wasn’t really our scene so we went to the far west and found a spot that wasn’t too loud or gusty.
That evening I Skyped with my dad and we watched another episode of Game of Thrones before staring out over the lovely town below.
Škrip | Dol
15 August
The oldest settlement on Brač is the village of Škrip, so of course we had to see it for ourselves. Stone quarried nearby was sent over to Split to form the bulk of Diocletian’s Palace at the turn of the fourth century.
Empty sarcophagi lined the main road up to the church, where a wizened woman cackled at us and proffered wine and pršut but we declined.
We entered the Kaštil Radojković, a terribly old fortification that now houses a museum among other things. Along the way we discovered a turtle knocking about, a cat who kept coming back for head scratches (he rubbed his ears on Yannick’s toes when he wasn’t getting enough attention), and a dilapidated couch with creepy figurines behind it.
We walked to the end of town and back, then found a quiet beach to rest upon for a while.
The neighbouring town of Dol has a population of only 130, and most of the residents are olive growers or winemakers. We took a quick walk around, noting a fair number of half-ruined houses that you could peer into and see that the furniture remained.
For lunch we went to Kaštil Gospodnetić Agroturizam up on the hill. It had a gorgeous courtyard with views over the village and all the way across the straight to the mainland. They had prepared a vegan dish for me that was very tasty.
16 August
For our last day on the island we visited the Pučišća beach one last time before packing up.
We then brought a picnic lunch to the beach that we had found the day before, and luckily wasps did not bother us. On the drive to Supetar we missed a turnoff, the Sat-nav tried to redirect our route, and got us stuck in a too narrow street. It took us a while to reverse out.
After ferrying back to Split, we picked up the keys to our apartment at a bakery on the corner and made bruschetta for dinner.
Teh Travels 